... Россия, India, Italy

Thursday, March 15, 2012

Random Mumbai

1. Cover of today's Times of India news paper - a car ad

2. Signage outside the museum of modern art. They have beautiful prints posted outside but it's been closed to change exhibits all week.

3. Menu at the street vendor where I got lunch. In the bottom left it shows items for persons of the Jain religion.

4. One of the arches of the Gateway to India framing a historic building behind it.

Victoria Station

Another World Heritage site in Mumbai is the main train station, Victoria Terminus. This is a massive building that has the beauty and presence of a cathedral. It is enhanced by the energy of so many travelers. I love the monkey detail on the pillars

Last Day

Today was my last day in India. I've spent several days in Mumbai and found them relaxing. I'm leaving late tonight for 3 days in London before I return to Calgary.

I've been dying to see the shrunken heads in the British Museum for like 15 years. (I hope they're still there).

Food

Everywhere I've been the quality of the fruit and nuts has been amazing. Pistachios are sweet, bruised over ripe bananas burst with flavor, dried peaches, figs, chai, yum, yum, yum. I still can't eat most cooked Indian food but I didn't feel the least deprived until I hit Mumbai.

The restaurants here are fabulous. I've had the best Italian outside of Italy. The macaroons and chocolate cake are to die for. The corn on the cob is gigantic, fresh off the fire and rubbed with lime! I'm fulfilling all of my western cravings.

Still craving my homemade chicken burgers tho. 1 medium onion, 1lb ground chicken, tomatoes, cheddar, baby dills, thawed hamburger buns (hint, hint).

Wednesday, March 14, 2012

Elephanta Island

Tomorrow is Bev's last day in India. Today, she went to Elephanta Island and various museums. Elephanta is one of a number of islands in Mumbai Harbour and is reached by taking a boat leaving from the Gateway of India.


The network of sculpted caves on the island are an UNESCO World Heritage site.


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elephanta_Caves

Monday, March 12, 2012

Colaba

After yesterday's stomach thing I thought I'd stay close to the hotel and do some shopping up and down the Colaba Causeway and check out the gateway to India. This area is a combination of street hawkers, tourist traps and designer brands. Here's the mornings loot. Shelled pistachios, cashews, caffeine, sweets and a designer watch (which came with a rose).

Sunday, March 11, 2012

Fed Up Fed Up Fed Up

When you plan a trip to India you start to get advice from everyone. Anything from don't drink the water to how to go to the Kalighat Temple without having your shoes stolen. Some of it is good and some so racist you want to gag. No one discusses how helpful India service staff is for the smallest most basic things and how infuriating this can be.

I stepped off the plane in Mumbai and walked into the first bathroom. Many of the stalls were occupied so I wandered down the row looking for one with the green open indicator on the lock. The attendant then pointed to an empty stall (which I was already heading into) and handed me my share of toilet paper. (Traditional Indians don't use toilet paper so they don't know how much is required). She then entered the stall and wiped the seat with a dirty rag. I went into the adjacent stall because really, like I'm going to wait for a dirty seat. (Toilet seats here are usually wet and I carry anti-bacterial wet wipes, so no problem). Come out of the stall and try to wash my hands. Only 1 in 3 of the sinks had soap. The attendant stands beside the paper towel and hands me two paper towels - you know, because it is so hard to pull these out of the dispenser myself. And I think I'm supposed to be grateful for the service. All I can think is 'dude I understand how to take a piss. It doesn't require this much help'.

This level of assistance is applied to everything but often just slow enough that it's irrelevant. If you do not let yourself be served it can escalate to an argument. Never get into this argument; it leads to crappy, slightly hostile service you can not get away from. In your hotel it will last days and spread amongst hotel staff members.

So my options are to be so fast it's done before they can offer, or, expect the service and tip well for it. I waffle back and forth depending on my mood.

I find it very frustrating. I feel like I'm robbed of my independence and self-sufficiency - ideals that are not valued here.

Photos Today

1. Looking for "A Passage to India"

2. Chocolates in the airport bookstore in March. Good quality chocolate is extremely expensive here.

3. Bag of potato chips. They include the usual nutritional info but never the size of the package.

4. Seagrams billboard. This 'live it large' (bottom right) or have a 'big' life / personality keeps coming up. It's like be self-indulgent, public, extravagant and throw money around. Maybe it's just a mimic of western ideals. Don't really know.

5. Lounge chairs in airport.

6. Billboard advertising Comedy Central, the US TV network, including John Stewart. It looks like I get this channel at the hotel.

7. Haji Ali mosque.

8. The hotel sign in ledger, a massive meter long book.

To Mumbai

I got tired of the grubby $25 rooms and decided that the night between my flight from Khajaraho and Mumbai I would stay in the Delhi airport hotel. Nice, modern and almost clean.

Delhi airport was very civilized but not too busy. My flight was good, but the meal has done a number on my stomach. (Just when I thought I was going to get out of India without 'Delhi Belly').

Cab ride from airport by prepaid taxi was Rs 350 and took more than an hour. I got a good look at the city and water on the way.

The hotel lost my reservation, but I got it in writing so they've moved people around. I didn't realize they included breakfast and dinner so yeah! Hope I can eat it.

Be-friended the convenience stall guy outside the hotel and got water and chips so I can be sick all day and took the tummy pills so I can be better tomorrow. Found English sitcoms on TV. Settling in for a long day of TV and blogging.